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View Full Version : Rebuilding 355 Chevy Blower Motor



majik211@yahoo.com
07-18-2006, 02:47 PM
Im having a machine shop look at my 350 chevy but im trying to make sure that they don't go over board with suggestions on parts for the motor and wanted to get your alls input.
I will be running B and M 6-71 Blower at 10lbs of boost with a 350 4 Bolt Main bored 30-over, the crank is a forged + polished + balanced gm stock crank, heads are double hump cast 60cc with double springs, Two 4160 Holley Carbs, MSD Ignition with boost retard control, Mallory distributor, Hooker Competition Headers that go to a 4 in side pipe with no restriction at all ( the neighbors are gonna hate me :D ) 350 Turbo Trans Built to the Hilt 3800 stall and 3:73 rear gears
Any suggestions for pistons, valves and rings that are not to terribly expensive but will hold up for a few years would be greatly apprecieated.
Or any other suggestions for that matter as the machine shop has not called me back yet for a total estimate and im just trying to prepare myself the best I can, Thanks guys. :)

kchotboat
07-25-2006, 01:33 PM
I ran JE pistons on my last motor with H beam rods it was a 540 setup to add a ProCharger. My currect setup is 454 bored 060 over with forged flat tops on GM high performance rods. This motor has a 177 blower and a 1050 holley on it.

modo
09-13-2006, 10:57 AM
srp will save you some dollars, can get a set for around 500. rings depend on whether you are going to have a pcv setup or a vaccum pump... whoever is doing the machine work should be asking you a lot of questions

majik211@yahoo.com
11-29-2006, 09:04 PM
Just got everything back together and WHOLY CRAP the car pulls the wheels!
Figured I would send you guys a pic of the evil motor!

johnsjj2
12-01-2006, 05:27 PM
That is one sweet engine!! What did you end up using?

Josh

William McCormick
12-06-2006, 09:50 PM
Im having a machine shop look at my 350 chevy but im trying to make sure that they don't go over board with suggestions on parts for the motor and wanted to get your alls input.
I will be running B and M 6-71 Blower at 10lbs of boost with a 350 4 Bolt Main bored 30-over, the crank is a forged + polished + balanced gm stock crank, heads are double hump cast 60cc with double springs, Two 4160 Holley Carbs, MSD Ignition with boost retard control, Mallory distributor, Hooker Competition Headers that go to a 4 in side pipe with no restriction at all ( the neighbors are gonna hate me :D ) 350 Turbo Trans Built to the Hilt 3800 stall and 3:73 rear gears
Any suggestions for pistons, valves and rings that are not to terribly expensive but will hold up for a few years would be greatly apprecieated.
Or any other suggestions for that matter as the machine shop has not called me back yet for a total estimate and im just trying to prepare myself the best I can, Thanks guys. :)

I might suggest that you setup or look into a solenoid controlled gasoline dump under the base of the carburetor. Rather then retard the timing. If you have to retard it is because you don't have enough fuel to keep her cool. You are throwing away torque.

Years ago if you used twenty pounds of nitrous in 43 seconds, you had to add gas under the carborator. That is what we used to do. We would just poor gas into the intake manifold from a brass tube with holes in it. It was part of the NOS system. Two solenoids one for gas one for Nitrous oxide.

It was sick. And in fact after using the setup that was drilled out specifically to let in extra gas to protect expensive motors, I would have to let the car warm up or I would not get that snappy take off out of it.

Scott Shafroff originally had drilled them out to protect a set of large Oldsmobile Siamese Block marine racing engines. He did not think the Nitrous would do any good but, the customer wanted to give it a shot, and I don't blame him. But the boat just spun it's prop. So I bought the system and adapted it to a two barrel carburetor, in an Oldsmobile Cutlass with a 350 big block Rocket Engine. It just flamed the tires. I had to get up to twenty miles an hour before hitting it or I would just flame out. It made for a funny sleeper car.

It had an automatic transmission and the car would go into third gear, drive when you hit the nitrous. I actually bent the car with the nitrous.

Sincerely,

William McCormick

William McCormick
12-06-2006, 09:54 PM
Just got everything back together and WHOLY CRAP the car pulls the wheels!
Figured I would send you guys a pic of the evil motor!

Wow, I just read this message and saw you were done with it. Looks great.


Sincerely,

William McCormick

THE KING
12-09-2006, 09:20 PM
Get those carbs off there, and put a injector on that bad boy.

THE KING
12-09-2006, 09:31 PM
Bill,

That what happen when you put 10 pounds of crap in a 2 pound bag. Yep the bag rips. A fast car has a lot more to do with engineering a good chassis than a huge motor.

William McCormick
12-09-2006, 09:58 PM
Bill,

That what happen when you put 10 pounds of crap in a 2 pound bag. Yep the bag rips. A fast car has a lot more to do with engineering a good chassis than a huge motor.

Oh sure, we knew it would bend her up a little ahead of time, but it was just a junker.

It was just a quick cheap thrill.

I used to weld Chromemolly chassis for race cars and race bikes.

Sincerely,

William McCormick