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BilHerd
01-07-2005, 03:07 PM
Hi,

I just read the post about there needing to be rust for the Rust Encapsulator to work properly. This has me very concerned, I had called in and asked the person on the phone at Eastwood if the Rust Encapsulator was usable as a primer in itself and was told most assuredly yes. I have been using it over scuffed epoxy primer and clean (no rust, no paint) steel as a primer for chassis paint. No one said I have to rust the surface (apply water first) and I don’t recall the instructions saying not to use on anything that wasn't rusty.

I have done three quarters of a car using the Rust Encapuslator as my basic primer for any interior or underneath areas. Do I have to strip the car and start over (1.5 years of work) if the RE wasn’t applied to rust in particular?

Bil Herd

BilHerd
01-07-2005, 05:39 PM
BTW. I am using the aerosol product and havn't see any issues with not setting very quickly.

Nick C
01-07-2005, 05:43 PM
Hello Bil,

Rust Encapsulator’s intended use is for application over rusted surfaces that have been properly prepped (surface should be free of oil and grease, and any loose rust should be knocked off with a wire brush). Oftentimes, when someone is repairing a rusted area, they will feather the repair into areas of clean metal. For application to clean metal, the surface should be roughened up (120 grit sandpaper or a coarse scotchbrite pad) and wiped clean with surface prep (PRE or acetone). This will help to ensure a strong bond between the metal and Rust Encapsulator.

Although Rust Encapsulator is intended to be applied over rust, if you have properly prepped the bare metal, you should not have any issues.

Nick C.

BilHerd
01-07-2005, 05:55 PM
So it sounds like I should be okay if everything is clean (it was) and whatever it is is scuffed to give the RE some tooth? I.E. like any other non-etching primer.

Bil

Nick C
01-07-2005, 06:08 PM
Bil,

It sounds like you shouldn't have any issues.

Just to let you know, if you are using our Chassis Black chassis paint, you can apply that directly over bare, clean metal (without a primer). It works great over bare metal or over the Rust Encapsulator.

Nick C.

BilHerd
01-07-2005, 06:25 PM
Cool, 100% of what I was doing was followed up by Chassis black as an epoxy top coat. Sounds like I can skip a step.

(I just ruined a work-in-progress over the summer by using regular primer on new floor and other welding and then covering with a mostlywaterproof but evidently leaky tarp that created a steambath and (re)rusted everything not sealed. SInce discovering this I have been making sure that the last layer of anything is epoxy)

Question about Chassis Black: Is this the same as a two part epoxy in it's properties? Is it somehow catalyzed after leaving the spraycan or is this different than a regular expoxy paint?

BTW, this forum is great, I have been waiting to ask these questions of someone.

Nick C
01-10-2005, 12:10 PM
Bil,

Chassis Black is fortified with Epoxy resin. It does not contain both "A" and "B" components of a typical epoxy automotive paint, but it does develop most of the same properties.

Nick C.

BilHerd
01-16-2005, 12:54 PM
Just went to do some repair work to my 280zx I am restoring.

I decided to drop the Rust Encapsulator as my general purpose primer per the previous discussion. Nick recommended that Chassis Black was usable by itself over bare clean metal. Right before shooting the parts I read the can (again) and it says for best results, use a primer. Hey I want the best results given I just spent 40 minutes sandblasting some trivial parts that no-one will ever see, so I shot it with Self Etching Primer.

THEN I read the can that says not for use under Chassis Black. Soon as it sets, I guess I am heading back to the blaster.

SO, what is the ideal combination of primer and epoxy type overcoat for metal parts and panels? I thought I had this figured out previously but the good recipe eludes me here.

Bil