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Thread: Preping for epoxy

  1. #1

    Default Preping for epoxy

    Hello Kevin! I have a 64 nova that I have just remover the front clip. I have been "wire wheel" the fire wall down to metal as best I can however there is some tight spaces that I will probably use a scotch brite pad on. My question--Is the wire wheel enough for the epoxy to adhear too? I know i would still need to use some sort of paint prep. I would be interested to hear your thoughts and product suggestions. I would like to use eastwood products all the way through except my top coat is "John Deer Blitz Black".

    Suggestions needed

    -pre paint prep/degreaser

    -Epoxy

    -High build primer

    -filler

    -seam sealer


    Is the above in the correct order? Also I want to take into account if any of these product will damage my garage expoy floor. If so I want to be prepared to cover the floor. The floor is a PPG epoxy and chem based. Thanks for any insight and where can I find a link to your DVD's? I always watch trucks if i get up in time on the weekends.


    Casey

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Posts
    289

    Default

    Just for good measure, I'd throw a coating of Eastwood Rust Dissolver in between your pre-paint prep (degreasing) step, and the epoxy.... It's a great way to ensure that your not missing any pitted rust. Other than that it sounds good!!!


    KT

  3. #3

    Default

    I will add that in thxs kevin. I just joined this forum after getting several opinions on my forum(nova). Some member thought a wire wheel would not be enough abraision to the metal surface for the expoy to stick and recommended a 80 grit. I however dont have a compressor to keep up with a 2" 80 grit to get in tight spaces. Everything I have read is the expoxy just ned the surface to be clean and it will stick? Just wanted to make sure the wire whee/red pad/and cleaners were enough to do the job right.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Posts
    289

    Default

    If you have any pitted rust or surface rust at all, the converter is a great idea.... you cant have too much mechanical adhesion, so you may want to follow up with hand-sanding 80 grit everywhere you can reach... then geting a red (coarse) scuffing pad in between corners and crevaces.

    Epoxy is a very good coating, and sticks to almost anything, but prrep is king, the surface has to be clean, grease free, and roughed up.

    KT.

  5. #5

    Default

    Well I hate to beat a dead horse. So you also would advise to do more than wire wheel and red pad? I understand the cleaner/converters. However if the wire wheel is not enough I may not use it at all and just go straight to 80 grit and red pad. Then again the wire wheel will remove a lot of stuff that would clog the paper. I may then just use the wire wheel quickly to know of the large build up then 80 grit to bring to metal.

    Casey

    I am glad I found this forum. They should push this forum more.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Posts
    289

    Default

    Casey, 80 grit gets wiped out when you're trying to scale surface rust off.... go with the wire wheel first, kknow off the bad stuff, then follow with 80 and a pad to get into areas that you cant get with the 80,, then use the rust converter, followed by a quick scuff after 24 hours, ( red pad) then coat with epoxy knowing that you've been VERY dilligent with your prep. NO such thing as too much time spent of prep...
    KT.

  7. #7

    Default

    a needle good works great if you can find one

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Posts
    289

    Default

    umm, can you explain what a needle good is? dont really understand... educate me!

  9. #9

    Default

    sorry I meant needle gun, or needle scaler

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Posts
    289

    Default

    Cool tool!!!! are you watching Eastwood?

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