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Thread: Almost ready to paint the Mustang

  1. #1

    Default Almost ready to paint the Mustang

    So my father in-law and I are finishing the final blocking on the primer of the car. All the panels are attached currently for easier sanding and making sure body lines are crisp and consistent. My question is about painting.

    My FIL wants to disassemble the car, paint the interior,jams, and engine bay, then paint the bolt on stuff (i.e. doors, hood, fender, front assembly and then resassemble the car. What is your take on painting the bolt-on stuff after jamming either on the car or individually?

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jul 2009


    Is this a "driver" or a show car? theres several ways to get there from any starting place... it just depends what oyur end goal is, and also how many extra sets of hands that you have>???!?!?!


  3. #3


    It's mainly he an I but I have some buddies that could help hang sheet metal, if needed. The car is going to be a driven restro-rod painted with PPG products. Red, of course.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jul 2009


    OK, heres what I'm going to do on my JADED 66 Mustang Coupe. ( also a driven resto-rod or "Driver-queen" as Im growing accustomed to calling it.)

    Since I have graphics, I will shoot the body fully assembled, gapped, and with doors, hood and decklid, fender extensions, nose.. etc.. all bolted in place. I'll roughly mask off the jambs just to keep the overspray to a minimum. Once i've got my (three)colors of the graphic/ two tone sprayed, Im going to bury everything in three coats of Eastwoods Clear, then let dry for a few days. I'll sand EVERYTHING totally flat with 600, then dissasemble the car, and proceed to jambing everything out, and spraying the bottom sides of the hood and deck lid. This requires some masking of the exterior panels while Im jambing the base on the inside edges.... as well as that everything is put on a stand so I can have access to the back sides....

    Once I've got the base applied to the jambs, I'll unmask the exterior panels, then bathe everything in another three coats of clear. This gets me a TON of protection on the painted exterior, as well as enough clear to sand flat and bury my two tone lines on the graphics, as well as a FULLY DIPPED LOOK when you look at the car, since there's no oversray, masking lines, or lack of coverage.

    Once that coating has been left to dry for a few more days ( the longer the better) I'll (with the help of a buddy) reassemble the car. (which just got alot easier, because now I have my paint lines to assist in re-alignment, since the car was gapped and final-fit when I shot the first round of paint.

    With the car fully assembled, I'll sand for final buffing... which by this time takes a minimal amount of actualy cutting, due to the enhanced flow-out of clear sprayed onver sanded clear... it really really helps!!I'll buff everything except for wher my matte- clear is going, right in the center of the hood, cowl, and deck lid...these areas will be sanded (600) but NOT buffed out.

    The insert will be matt-finish with Eastwoods new Matt-clear, but that will happen last.. so I can surface the clear flat to appy it, since it cant be buffed or the semi-gloss finish will be ruined. Leaving this step to the very last also lets me do final reassembly, glass installation, even engine break-in BEFORE my final clear is applied, minimizing the possibility of marring the semi gloss surface, causing a re-do.

    This may seem like the long way around... but it's less work, and im my opinion, a better result in the long run. The technique your buddy wants to do is typical collision shop method, jamming, assembly, masking the jambs, then spraying final topcoats with an assembled vehicle, and it works well, but you end up with comprimizes along the way, like overspray issues, and masking lines.., and a less than perfect finish.

    Do what makes sense to you.... but this is your opportunity to show off your bodywork... clear is the reverse-mirror that people peer through to inspect your bodywork... give them a clear look! Folks at a car show will look for tape lines and overspray.... dont let them see any!!

    It's all a bunch of work, either way, it' a ton of work, but I find that my method works best for me and the goals I set.


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