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Thread: New non-lead filler

  1. #1

    Default New non-lead filler

    I would like to use your new non-lead filler on my old car body. I have a question about the flux chemicals. I hear from friends that the flux is hard to clean and that it sometimes leaches out and affects the paint. How do you neutralize it to prevent paint problems? Thanks Don

  2. #2

    Default Lead Free Solder

    The fluxes used with both the lead and lead free body solders etch into the steel to form a tight bond with the tin. Most surplus acidic residues float to the top of the repair. Most of these harmful residues, on the tinned surface, are readily removed by rubbing with a clean rag soaked in hot water. Keep in mind that corrosive fumes rise and will also etch metal directly above the repair area. So once the repair is completed you may want to wipe down the solder and the area directly above it with hot water and perhaps a little Oxisolv.

    Avoid using solder over spot welded seams. All seams should have a continuous weld to prevent fluxes from becoming trapped and causing corrosion problems later. These problems can show up years later as raised spots under the paint.

    I think you’ll like the lead free solder. I was impressed how easily I was able to build it up on and paddle it out on vertical surfaces.

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