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Thread: Newbie with 82 Toyota 4x4 Restore on frame and body

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    29 Palms, CA
    Posts
    7

    Default Newbie with 82 Toyota 4x4 Restore on frame and body

    Well I picked this little gem up in Seattle for around 3k and I love to drive this old truck. I am modifying it but mostly just finishing the truck off. I'm pretty handy with a wrench but what I have almost no clue about is paint and rust. She has a rattle can job on her right now and it fails pretty miserably for what I want to drive day to day. I found Eastwood's products very very interesting and it seems like the solution for the frame and body resto that I want to accomplish. What I don't know.....is what I need to get lol. I've read about a lot of the products and I have an idea but after a while it gets confusing....especially when it gets to body filler and sanding/sandblasting etc etc on the body. Here are the pics and from there I'll let the advice start. This is my first restoration of hopefully quite a few. I love yotas and have quite a few on my list that I would like to get my hands on.



















    Ok what I've come up with for a shopping list is this from Eastwood. I think I'll stick with Eastwood except for the bed liner product which is Raptor made by Upol.

    For Rust:
    EW Pre
    EW Rust Converter Aerosol
    EW Internal Frame Coating Kit

    For Underbody/Frame:
    EW Rubberized Undercoating

    For Body Prep??
    No idea but I am interested in the toughest stuff out there for paint. Anything that can handle rocks/brush is great.

    Top Coat:
    I know I want a two tone paint job of a Cyan blue and white for the top part of the truck. The lowest 6" of the truck will be covered in bed liner as well as the wheel wells.

    Engine, Tranny, Transfer Cases: I just want the engine not to rust. I figure a high temp aerosol would do the trick but I've heard powder coating would do the job as well. I just didn't want to put the whole engine in an oven.....and I don't really want to take the engine apart to the block to paint it either.

    Interior:
    EW Thermocoustic liner for the doors, firewall, floor and walls
    I don't think I have rust inside the cab....but I'm going to remove the interior except for the guts of the dash to check anyway.
    The interior will probably be carpet in the end but I haven't decided yet.

    This is the first thing that is happening to the truck. Without the body and frame intact I won't be able to drive the truck till the wheels fall off. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. I did find the original stripes for the side of the truck and I'm still working on new badging. Also I don't know if I can save the tailgate either....I would like to though instead of finding another one. Oh and I have no idea how much of this stuff I need. I just want to make double sure that I do this right the first time.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Pottstown, PA
    Posts
    915

    Default

    Looks like you are on the right track. A couple things to mention in your product list. PRE is meant for cleaning or prepping a surface before painting. Not for actual rust removal or treatment. For the chassis I would first wire brush off any major scaly rust, then spray/brush on our rust converter and let it cure. (2 coats may be needed for heavier rust.) Then a coat of our Rust Encapsulator, Then Chassis Black. That should properly treat, cure, and seal the rust!

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    29 Palms, CA
    Posts
    7

    Default

    What about the body filler and prepping for paint? The body panels are pretty straight but I always see a car that's about to get painted having this gray stuff (not primer) all over it. I know that sounds dumb but I've never done this type of thing before. Do you have any idea how much of the rust treatment I'm going to need? Well I guess you would need to know what's rusted. The frame is pretty much orange all over, underside of the truck, under the bed rails all the way around, the bed, and I think that's about it. I would think that a couple of gallons would do it but I dunno.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Pottstown, PA
    Posts
    915

    Default

    Yes you'd want to use PRE just before you paint or lay filler, just a light wipe down to get any grease or residue off of the metal. For filler I like the Rage Xtreme it is VERY user friendly, and is does not have issues with pinholes like a lot of other fillers.

    Not sure on the Gray stuff.. probably just filler or spot primer?

    If you are doing a complete frame, I'd start with a gallon at least for sure.

    Hope that helps!

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    29 Palms, CA
    Posts
    7

    Default

    Well the pictures I've been looking at have been from wrecks so it's probably body filler with primer on top of it. I think all I need to do is sand the rattle can stuff off and primer the truck before painting when it comes to the body. Luckily I only have to sheet metal a few holes in the bed and it will be just like new. That does help quite a bit. I'm pricing everything out now and when I get back from deployment I'm going to do the prep work at my house and then re-assemble and paint the whole truck at the hobby shop. It has everything I need there including the paint booth. Thanks for all of your help as it gave me the total that I need to know so I can save enough money. Looks like a cool 6k for the resto, engine swap (7mge), new tranny, dual transfer cases, full floating rear axle, and disc brake conversion. I can worry about the axles and differentials at a later date.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    29 Palms, CA
    Posts
    7

    Default

    Right now I'm surviving the fallout of our pay vs. new taxes but saving cash is still in the works. My 98 4runner needs new springs and tires so most of the $$ is going towards that. Thankfully theres no rust here in the high desert. I am slowly gathering parts and supplies to get the job done all at once. Might be looking at going recruiting here soon too. Hopefully I can keep this gem protected wherever I go.

    Interior is in ok shape. Needs new carpet and the doors need to be redone on the inside. Luckily the dash is faded but not cracked so good news there. I will have to do a fiberglass radio surround as those you just cant find these days. Seats will be replaced with some 4runner seats as I plan on replacing the ones in my 98 with corbeaus.

  7. #7

    Default

    Hang in there. Sometimes it does take a while.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    29 Palms, CA
    Posts
    7

    Default

    Good news! Well at least some. I squared away some of the leaks from the 22r that has been pumping in the hood for quite some time. The only bad part was I thought it was coming from the rear main vs. the oil pan and valve cover. It was on the back so there was no way to really tell without dropping the tranny. So there was a list of good news and some bad.

    Good news first:
    There are indeed 5.29 gears in both differentials. I will only need 4.88 when I am finished but it's a lot easier to trade someone for 4.88 gears when you have 5.29 lol.
    The block is in pretty good shape and had some interesting surprises for me when I took the valve cover off. It has a dual row timing chain set and the valves have been upgraded so dimes to dollars says there is a high lift cam in there. This also explains the difficulty the engine has had when I tried to dial in the 32/36 and timing with a less aggressive setting. When I adjusted it the timing was advanced 12 and the engine loved a 45 and 50 for fuel jets in the weber 32/36. With a high lift cam this would be expected but I have still no real idea how "built" the engine is.
    The vehicle does have a w56 transmission installed which is much stronger than the g52 which came stock. It also explains why my speedo is off by so much on stock size tires. I think it reads 10mph slow at about 60.

    The bad:
    3 of the 6 crossmember bolts....well they're rusted out and were snapped before I started dropping the tranny.
    The hood and transmission tunnel need tons of work as far as cleaning goes to really see what kind of shape the body is in but it has a solid knock so I think I'm ok.
    There's a problem with my heater core as it definitely gets coolant and the fan works but isn't blowing any kind of hot air.
    The header....well it was more like half a header. Anyway I had to get another one of those so I could have a legit exhaust and PMO wasn't writing me a ticket here in Cali.
    The underside of the valve cover showed a ton of sludge so I'm thinking it might have to get a rebuild even though I have no idea how to really go about doing that. Google will show the way though.

    That's about it for description. I am taking the time while I had the oil pan and valve cover off to paint them. I haven't got the valve cover re-installed but here are some pics that show what kind of shape the truck is in on the underside at least.











  9. #9
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    29 Palms, CA
    Posts
    7

    Default Promised pics

    It looks good in the pics but eventually I will pull it and redo the valve cover when it's removed from the hood. It made for some good practice though. Next up is cleaning up all of the nastiness seen with hoses, old wiring, old emissions stuff that's not hooked up anymore, etc etc. Just got my headers in as well. I will start prepping them for paint. I have a guy that's going to spray the ceramic coating from Eastwood. Gloss black will go with the black accents on the valve cover.



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