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Thread: Question about spraying sealer and basecoat/clear

  1. #1

    Question Question about spraying sealer and basecoat/clear

    Sealer: Nason Dupont Select 422-23 Acrylic sealer Flast time 10min
    Basecoat: Dupont Chromabase basecoat Flast time 10mins
    Clear: Nason Dupont Selectclear 496-00 Urethane clearcoat

    Painting engine compartment

    Questions
    1) Can I spray 2 coats sealer then 2 coats of basecoat then 2 coats of clear all same day if I just wait the flash time between coats?
    2) Should I sand before 2 coat sealer? After base coat do I sand 400grit apply another coat then sand with lighter paper then apply clear?
    3) I purchased a east wood paint gun and the gauge that connects to the paint gun has a gauge that is in increments of 10psi how do I setup the gun for 7psi?
    4) What tip should I use to spray sealer and clearcoat?
    5) between paint changes I was going to use lacquer thinner to clean the gun is that ok?
    6) Any other tips that you can provide me would be helpful

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    Louisiana
    Posts
    52

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    Quote Originally Posted by subzero123
    Sealer: Nason Dupont Select 422-23 Acrylic sealer Flast time 10min
    Basecoat: Dupont Chromabase basecoat Flast time 10mins
    Clear: Nason Dupont Selectclear 496-00 Urethane clearcoat

    Painting engine compartment

    Questions
    1) Can I spray 2 coats sealer then 2 coats of basecoat then 2 coats of clear all same day if I just wait the flash time between coats?
    2) Should I sand before 2 coat sealer? After base coat do I sand 400grit apply another coat then sand with lighter paper then apply clear?
    3) I purchased a east wood paint gun and the gauge that connects to the paint gun has a gauge that is in increments of 10psi how do I setup the gun for 7psi?
    4) What tip should I use to spray sealer and clearcoat?
    5) between paint changes I was going to use lacquer thinner to clean the gun is that ok?
    6) Any other tips that you can provide me would be helpful

    The products you chose are good, but why are you using the Nason sealer & Clear, but using the Chromabase? Nason's Ful-base is a great product also & is cheaper than the Chromabase, just asking because your using the cheaper line then higherline then back to cheaper line.

    Now to answer your questions:
    1)Yes as long as you wait on the flash times between coats, that is the way to do it.
    2)Clean everything very good, then you can sand with 600 & scotchbrite pad, clean again then spray sealer. DO NOT sand the base coat unless you have an imprefection you need to sand out, but you will need to shoot color over it again, then clear.
    3)What gun did you buy? Haven't seen one that shoots at 7psi, unless meaning at the cap. Need to know which gun to help on this one.
    4)Get copies of the product sheets for your sealer, paint, & clear it will give you alot of info. I myself have used my 1.4 using these same materials.
    5)Lacquer thinner will work, I would rinse it afterwards with your reducer,IMO.
    6)Spray practice panels first, learn the adjustments of the gun, & buy some of the dvd's on learning how to paint, they can save you alot of time & money. The practice some more.

    Sam

  3. #3

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Slamin Sam
    The products you chose are good, but why are you using the Nason sealer & Clear, but using the Chromabase? Nason's Ful-base is a great product also & is cheaper than the Chromabase, just asking because your using the cheaper line then higherline then back to cheaper line.

    Now to answer your questions:
    1)Yes as long as you wait on the flash times between coats, that is the way to do it.
    2)Clean everything very good, then you can sand with 600 & scotchbrite pad, clean again then spray sealer. DO NOT sand the base coat unless you have an imprefection you need to sand out, but you will need to shoot color over it again, then clear.
    3)What gun did you buy? Haven't seen one that shoots at 7psi, unless meaning at the cap. Need to know which gun to help on this one.
    4)Get copies of the product sheets for your sealer, paint, & clear it will give you alot of info. I myself have used my 1.4 using these same materials.
    5)Lacquer thinner will work, I would rinse it afterwards with your reducer,IMO.
    6)Spray practice panels first, learn the adjustments of the gun, & buy some of the dvd's on learning how to paint, they can save you alot of time & money. The practice some more.

    Sam
    Well since I am an new I had the paint place set me up with the paint so thatís what I get . Next time I will use the chromabase product line.

    1) Ok
    2) So scotchbrite,sealer,scotchbrite,sealer,scotchbrite, basecoat,basecoat,clear,clear ?
    So I donít sand between the basecoats and clear?
    3) 12506 DeVilbiss Auto Paint and Priming System. So if I want 7-9psi at the cap how do I set this up?
    4) Got them but the sealer and clear doesnít show what tip size.
    5) What the reducer? Are you talking about the basemaker?
    6) Going to do that. Can I put some lacq in the cup and spray it to play with the adjustments?

  4. #4

    Default

    2) No. Clean, clean, clean, sand, clean, seal, basecoat, basecoat, clear, clear. Primer needs to be sanded. Sealer only needs sanded if you wait too long to topcoat it. In other words, you will only sand once unless you screw something up.

    4) 1.4 is good.

    5) Yes. Laquer thinner will be fine.

    6)Laquer thinner will evaporate too fast and is too thin. If you adjust it wth laquer thinner, then you will have to re-adjust it when you put thicker material. When I adjust my gun, I unscrew the fluid needle screw almot all the way out, hold the trigger all the way in, and screw the adjustment back in till I feel the needle touch the trigger. This will allow for full product flow at full trigger, and less as I release the trigger. If I want less material at full trigger I screw the fluid screw in till it is where I want it. To adjust the air pressure/pattern, you will hold the gun up to a wall/test panel. Pull and release the trigger once rapidly. You want a "() "pattern. If you have a ")(" pattern you have too much air pressure. If you have a "O" pattern, open up the air adjustment (top screw) and add air pressure. If you have a "((" or "))" pattern, you need to clean the nozzle of the gun.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    Louisiana
    Posts
    52

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    Once you have gotten everything cleaned, all you need to sand is your primer or old finish. Then with some scotchbrite hit all the edges and hard to get to places, then clean again. No sanding between coats unless needed. You can scuff the sealer if it needs it then shoot paint,no sanding, then shoot clear. The lacquer thinner is good to clean with, but would use a little reducer or basemaker just to rinse it afterwards, some Lacquer thinners will have a little moisture in them.
    You can spray water through your gun, it will spray simular to paint, it is heavier bodied than thinner. A 1.3 - 1.5 tip setup will work with what you are spraying. By what I read up on you guns your air pressure should be set around 30 psi at the gauge.

    Sam

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