as opposed to the mixing process when you add the hardner? i may be crazy but it seam that that aggitation would be more likely to cause air pockets than stiring the raw filler.Originally Posted by CARS
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Yes I do
No I don't
What the heck are you talking about? Get back to work!
I just recieved one of the Eastwood Lead kits (because it was a good time to replace my file and paddles) that came with an instructional DVD.
I learned how to do lead work from my old Autobody instructor years ago and I have never seen a video demonstration. I found it to be very good and as detailed as you can get on tape.
My question to everyone is regaurding the plastic filler segment of the video. They tell us to stir the can of body filler. I have always been told not to do this because it allows air to enter the filler which in turn causes pinholes in the spread filler.
Does anyone do this?
Chris'
Autobody
Restoration
Service
www.carsofcomfrey.com
Comfrey MN
William McCormick "I am not an expert, but I do know some basics that are often not known by many."
as opposed to the mixing process when you add the hardner? i may be crazy but it seam that that aggitation would be more likely to cause air pockets than stiring the raw filler.Originally Posted by CARS
when in doubt polish it out. why replace it when you can refinish it.
G2 Polishing and Powdercoating
cliff
In the video (and I have heard of others doing this), They open the can of filler and take a stir stick and stir it up. The reason they state is that the oils have floated to the top of the can. That makes sence to a point but have never met a person in my 15 year carrer that does this. I read the can of Evercoat Rage Extreme I have in it does say to stir contents.Originally Posted by PICKLEBOY
I was just curious how many people do this?
I have never had a failure from not stiring filler.
BTW I don't even stir it after I add hardner, I fold it over tightly against the mixing board to squeeze out any air I can. This results in far fewer pinholes than just "wipping up" the filler/hardner.
Chris'
Autobody
Restoration
Service
www.carsofcomfrey.com
Comfrey MN
William McCormick "I am not an expert, but I do know some basics that are often not known by many."
that sounds much better the way you do it. i have almost no experience with fillers except metal to metal and before when i used bondo it was not pretty. i am the one refered to on the thread that some should not use fillers.![]()
when in doubt polish it out. why replace it when you can refinish it.
G2 Polishing and Powdercoating
cliff
stir it ..
I usually turn the can over every couple of days until I open it. Once it has been opened I just take it off the top. No problems yet unless it was an old can. Then there was some really thick stuff at the bottom.![]()
CmdrRay
Ye Old Armor Shop
Stirring will introduce air into the filler and you can see the air bubbles in it afterwards. This is not a problem. As stated before this keeps the filler and oils from separating. Even filler will settle with time and the parts do separate. Just like a spray can you need to shake it to mix the contents. Filler does the same thing. To eliminate the air from the filled it is the technique used when applying the filler to the panel. Never "Glob" the filler on in thick layer. Filler is meant to be used in thin layers at a time to get a proper build. About 3 thin coats is the goal for a “high” build. When working the filler over the intended area you want to work the filler into the panel with the spreader several times. By doing this you will eliminate the air. Remember, thin coats. I have been doing bodywork on show cars and was taught early on that the initial metal work is the most important part. Filler is only used when needed and in thin applications followed by high build primers.